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Saturday, July 31, 2021

Burnt Head Point – Folding Under Pressure


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Looking across the water at Burnt Head Point, it is not hard to pick out the rock of the 575-million-year-old Drook Formation. In fact, all of the grey-green layered rock found along the Burnt Head Trail belong to the same silty and sandy sediments of that formation.

The name comes from the location where this formation was first identified — along the Drook River just west of Mistaken Point, on the southeast corner of Newfoundland's Avalon Peninsula. These sediments were deposited after a long period of glaciation. They accumulated over tens of thousands of years in what was, at the time, a deep ocean — and during an era when multicellular animals and plants were just starting to appear and evolve.

Burnt Head Point showing the Drook Formation sediments.
Photo by Chris Woodworth-Lynas

The layers — or strata — of this deep-water sediment were likely horizontal when they were first deposited. Over time, they tilted and they now dip downward toward the northwest. 

In the cliff's midsection, the layers have been distorted into a Z-shaped fold. This is the result of powerful tectonic forces pushing the Drook Formation sediments over the older, pink-coloured rocks that form Burnt Head.

The pink rocks are volcanic ashes and tuffs belonging to the older Harbour Main Group, which are between 600 and 630 million years old. They are intermixed with breccia — a combination of gravel, boulders, and sand. The layering in these volcanic rocks is very disorganized, probably because of volcanic action and earlier tectonic movements. As a result, it is difficult to make out the structure of these rocks today.



Burnt Head Point's geological layers: The red areas are volcanic rocks of the Harbour Main Group and the orange lines trace the layers of the Drook Formation. The large red arrows indicate the direction of force pushing upward and folding the layers of sediment. The blue arrows indicate the movement of glacier ice over the rocks and into Conception Bay about 10,000 to 12,000 years ago, at the end of the Pleistocene glaciation.
Drawing courtesy of Chris Woodworth-Lynas.

The rocks along the Burnt Head Trail are slightly older than those at Mistaken Point (now a UNESCO World Heritage site). There, the imprints or trace fossils of some of the world's oldest multicellular organisms — the Ediacaran Fauna — can be seen. They have also been found in younger layers of the Drook Formation closer to Cupids, in Spaniard's Bay, and in Upper Island Cove. So far, however, none of these unique fossils have been found in the rocks along the Burnt Head Trail. If you think you may have found any fossils, please let us know by sending a message using Contact Us on this page.

Information provided by Chris Woodworth-Lynas.

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Friday, July 30, 2021

Names & Stages


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The Morgan family gives their name to Morgan’s Cove.¹ With the exception of a few family members, such as Samuel Morgan who was a carpenter, the Morgans were fishers. Three Morgan brothers had fishing stages close to each other in nearby Noder Cove. The people of the community nicknamed the buildings the Father, the Son, and the Holy Ghost.

Greenland, Morgan's Cove, Noder Cove, and Deep Gulch were all settled because of their proximity to fishing grounds in nearby Conception Bay. Before outboard motors existed, fishers would row out to their fishing grounds every day, and back, which was hard work. Living close to fishing grounds meant they spent less time rowing, saving them time and energy. Many men who lived in the communities along the Burnt Head Trail also fished "on the Labrador."

The government wharf in Cupids. Photo by Mary Schwall.
Memorial University Archives and Special Collections (Coll-206), 1.01.040. 

While every fisherman knew enough carpentry to build themselves a house, a carpenter was needed for the finer work. Samuel Morgan's skill set him apart from the rest. He lived in one of the largest houses in the community, which he inherited from his father, and he worked hard to improve it.² People remember the house as having an enclosed front porch with windows, a large front door, and a flat roof with felt shingles. Samuel Morgan's carpentry shop was across from his house. From there, he made window sashes and doors for the people in the neighbouring communities.

¹ Renelle Bishop, "The Abandoned Communities: Greenland, Noder Cove and Deep Gulch," August 6, 2000, Cupids Historical Society, Cupids Legacy Centre.
² John Morgan, "Recollections of Burnt Head," n.d., Collection of Yvonne Akerman Reid.

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Thursday, July 29, 2021

What's a Noder?


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Noder Cove gets its name from its position to the north of the nearby community of Greenland. It was originally called “Northern Cove” but, with time and the local dialect, Northern became Noder, and the name stuck.¹ 


This area actually encompassed two communities, Morgan's Cove and Noder Cove proper, and was more spread out compared to Greenland and Deep Gulch. While the Morgan families could be found in both halves of Noder Cove, there were more of them living in Morgan's Cove. Noder Cove families included the Fowlers, Tuckers, Dawes, and a few Morgans.²


The majority of the families here were Anglican. The handful of Roman Catholics, like the Walsh family in Deep Gulch, sent their children to the Anglican school for convenience.


Noder Cove, looking across Bay de Grave towards Port de Grave.

Two people are buried somewhere close to the end of Morgan's Road, which runs between Noder Cove and Morgan's Cove. They are believed to be a mother and child belonging to one of the earliest families to settle in the area, the Byrnes. Because they were Catholic, they could not be buried in the Anglican cemetery, and so were interred on their family land. Their graves were marked with field stones or large flat slate rocks (perhaps taken from the quarry in Deep Gulch). Today the area has become so grown over that it is quite difficult to find them.³

The families of Noder Cove prospered until the late 1930s or early 1940s when, with a collapse in the local cod stocks and the opening of the Argentia naval base, it became necessary for men to travel further afield to find work. It was simply easier to move to a better location and avail of modern conveniences, including the electricity that other towns were connected to. It is thought that the first house in Noder Cove to be abandoned belonged to Betty Morgan. She moved to live with her relative Ebenezer Dawe after her husband died.

¹ Tammy Mason, "Life in the Abandoned Settlements of Cupids," August 31, 1998, Cupids Historical Society, Cupids Legacy Centre.
² Renelle Bishop, "The Abandoned Communities: Greenland, Noder Cove and Deep Gulch," August 6, 2000, Cupids Historical Society, Cupids Legacy Centre.
³ Bob Bishop, interview with Katie Crane, June 4, 2021.

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Wednesday, July 28, 2021

Following the Fish


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Codfish were once plentiful in Conception Bay, but there came a time when these waters were unable to sustain all the fishermen living in the many communities dotting its shores. The men of the communities along the Burnt Head and Spectacle Head trails began to sign on as sharemen, joining a fishing crew to share in the proceeds, with fishermen who were sailing to Labrador to prosecute the Labrador inshore fishery. From the 1920s to the 1950s, most able-bodied local men would go to the Labrador to fish, which contributed to the eventual abandonment of the communities here, because families no longer needed to be near Conception Bay if they were fishing elsewhere.

The men from the Cupids area fished in the waters near Spotted Islands, Domino, Batteau, and Black Tickle, Labrador.¹ They signed on as sharemen with a fishing boat "Skipper" — and lived and worked in the Labrador fishery until they returned. They were usually away from May to November.² The shareman was responsible for taking care of the living premises, the boat, and everything that was needed for the crew working in Labrador.

Sometimes men took their families with them, but space was scarce on the ships going up to Labrador, so often just a wife or a daughter would go—to help with the cooking and cleaning. Enid Abbott remembers going with her father to the Labrador to cook when she was only 12 years old.³ Sometimes daughters would make the trip with fathers so wives could stay home to tend to the land and look after younger children.

Annie (Walsh) Boone in Labrador, holding turrs (Common or Thick-billed Murres), the results of a food hunt on the water. Photo courtesy of Ross Boone.

The trip to the Labrador might be made on a privately owned boat (such as Enid Abbott's father's Louie T), or company boats that were owned by merchants such as H.B. Dawe of Cupids (such as the Placentia or the Exploits), or one of the railway steamers (such as the Kyle, which can still be seen aground in at the head of Harbour Grace). When preparing for the trip, people packed wooden "Labrador boxes." They filled them with the clothing and gear they'd need, and their families often tucked a fruitcake or a bottle of rum inside as a treat for the summer.

On larger ships, fishermen would usually be accommodated in Steerage Class. This meant crowded rooms, and cooking your own food in the galley — once the Saloon Class meals were cleared away.

On arrival in Labrador, summer homes needed to be opened and cleaned out after the winter. Skippers lived with their families in small cabins not much bigger than sheds, while crew members slept in communal bunkhouses. Furniture was rough and homemade. Food supplies, provided by the Skipper, might include half a dozen barrels of flour, a barrel of molasses, large tubs of butter, a hundred-pound sack of sugar, hard bread, peas, beans, raisins, rice, and potatoes. The supply was meant to feed the Skipper, his family, and the crewmen. Sometimes goats and hens were also brought, to provide milk and eggs. In some locations, cabbages and turnips were planted to provide greens in the fall.

Men and women worked hard while in Labrador. Men would rise at four or five in the morning and go out to check the cod traps. They ate breakfast only after this was done, then moved to the fishing stages to clean the fish. After a midday meal, they'd go out to the traps again — and they would not stop working until after dark. The goal was to haul three loads a day, if they could. It was not uncommon to see men cleaning fish by the light of kerosene lamps.

Women also rose early—to make bread. They cleaned the cabins and washed clothes, making repairs as needed. Enid Abbott remembers making oilskins for her father, dipping his clothes in oil so they would repel water. Women also helped split fish, before the cod was salted.

Time for a picnic in 1920's Black Tickle, Labrador. Photo by Susie Bonnell of Cupids.

When cooking, women used a regular schedule to ensure they got the most out of the finite amount of provisions. Monday was boiled beans, Wednesday was pea soup, Friday was fish, if they had it, and Saturday was fish and brewis. On Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Sundays, they served Jiggs dinner: peas pudding, salt beef, duff, and potatoes.

Though the days were long and the work was hard, people still made time for entertainment. People would sing songs, tell stories, and visit the Labrador livyers (locals) for a dance. Samuel Horwood Richards from Rip Raps and James Bishop Dawe from Burnt Head were good friends who worked together on the Labrador. With Samuel's brother George, they wrote the song "Spotted Islands" when sailing on the Anderson owned by H.B. Dawe. It tells of times spent together and the fun they had in Labrador. Click the link to listen to the first verse.



We slipped our lines in Cupids,
Hoist our sails and squared away.

We were bound for Spotted Islands
So we heard Skipper Pottle say.

The boys jumped in their tacklin'
And their shoes they start to shine

For a dance in Spotted Islands
In the good old summer time.

In the good old summer time, 

In the good old summer time.

For a dance in Spotted Islands
In the good old summer time.
 

– Samuel Horwood Richards, James Bishop Dawe, and George Richards


¹ Tanya Edmunds, Down to the Labrador: The Labrador Fishery and its Connection to Cupids, 1920 to 1950, 

August 31, 1999, Cupids Historical Society, Cupids Legacy Centre.

² Interview with Samuel Horwood Richards by Victor DuPree, August 27, 1967, Memorial University Folklore 

and Language Archive.

³ Interview with Mary Enid Abbott by Tanya Edmunds, July 12, 1999, Cupids Historical Society, Cupids Legacy 

Centre. 

⁴ Interview with James Bishop Dawe by Victor DuPree, August 27, 1961, Memorial University Folklore and 

Language Archive.


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Tuesday, July 27, 2021

Natural Arch – Nature's Sculpting Hand


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The natural rock arch on the Burnt Head Trail was formed after the Pleistocene glaciers melted, between 10,000 and 8,000 years ago. The sea level gradually rose by about 120 metres as huge ice sheets and glaciers across the northern hemisphere melted.


The arch on the Burnt Head Trail is made of rock of the Drook Formation.
Photo courtesy of Chris Woodworth-Lynas.

On the shores of Conception Bay, rising water levels and waves from strong northeasterly storms battered the coastal rocks. Over time, the constant assault began to erode the shoreline, where some rock had already been loosened by the glaciers' retreat. Eventually all this action washed away pieces of bedrock at sea level. In some places, unstable overhangs were left as rock was removed. These, too, eventually collapsed and were washed away by the sea. This is what occurred to form the arch you see today. 


When you look closely at the arch, you can make out both the rock layers, which have been folded downwards, and straight partings, or cleavege, tilted to the right. Cleavage is the result of great pressure causing re-alignment of clay minerals. Rocks with good cleavage can be split easily, yielding rock pieces that are ideal for building house foundations or root cellar walls.


Features of the Drook Formation: The orange lines show the folded sedimentary layers
(which were originally flat). The black dashes represent clay minerals in the sediment,
which have been realigned through compression (red arrows) to form cleavage.
Drawing courtesy of Chris Woodworth-Lynas.

The sheltered cove in the area below and inside the arch is deceptively large. A17-foot open boat can fit inside — with turning space — at low tide. The craggy ledges of the arch are perfect places for nesting birds. Ravens have made their nests on rock walls of the arch, keeping their young safe from predators. The croaks of raven parents and nestlings can be heard during the nesting season in spring to early summer.


Information provided by Chris Woodworth-Lynas.


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Monday, July 26, 2021

Deep Gulch - Accordions in the Quarry


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There was once a quarry in Deep Gulch that, according to local oral history, was operated by an English company. It was located near the shoreline and the property of James Walsh. A steep path led down to it.¹ Slate was apparently excavated and shipped back to England. Little is known about this quarry, including the name of the company that operated it.

According to former resident Cecil Morgan, the people living nearby used to get rocks from the quarry to build foundations for their houses and root cellars, as well as rock walls to protect their gardens.² He also reported that his grandfather used flat rocks collected at the quarry to create a flagstone walkway on his property in Noder Cove. It led from the stable to the house and connected with some other houses in the community.

Martha LeDrew of Deep Gulch, born in 1908, lived in that community until she was 22, when she married and moved into Cupids.³ She has said that she would sometimes take her accordion to the quarry to play because it was a lovely place to sit for awhile.

And we used to spend Sunday evenings, I would take the accordion and go up, myself and Hussey was living there then with an old lady, and we we would take the accordion and we would go down on the water side. There was steps you could go down and come in. It was a lovely place. And I would play the accordion until I would get tired.

– Martha LeDrew

Her family in Port de Grave said that, on a good day—if the wind was right—they could hear her playing all the way across the bay.

I used to take the accordion myself and go round in there and play. And my cousins lived in Port de Grave, right across from us over on the Port de Grave shore, and they told me that they used to listen to me playing the accordion, and that would be a nice calm day. Maybe in the evening after dinner, or any time like that. And they told me different times they heard me playing the accordion over there, and I could hardly believe that, but they said they could.   

– Martha LeDrew


¹ Interview with James Fowler by Kelly Butler, August 6, 1997, Cupids Historical Society Collection, Cupids Legacy Centre.
² Interview with Cecil Morgan by Kelly Butler, August 20, 1997, Cupids Historical Society Collection, Cupids Legacy Centre.
³ Interview with Martha LeDrew by Kelly Butler, August 8, 1997, Cupids Historical Society Collection, Cupids Legacy Centre.

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Sunday, July 25, 2021

Deep Gulch – A Leap of Faith


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Deep Gulch was home to several families, including the Husseys, Taylors, and Walshes. With steep cliffs, it does not look like a good place to build a boat, at first glance. But that is exactly what Patrick Walsh did.

Born around 1853, Patrick Walsh was a ship captain and boat builder. His family land did not slope nicely down to the water, but that did not deter him. Patrick built the Little Mary, an approximately 25-tonne schooner.¹ Without gently sloping land or a nearby beach, Patrick reportedly launched the Little Mary off the side of the cliff.

Moving a boat the size of the Little Mary would have been no easy task, and launching her off the side of a cliff an even harder one. Runners would have been put under the boat to help move it, while men hauled it along on ropes. To help motivate the men, the song "Jolly Poker" (also called "Johnny Poker") may have sung.² Men would haul on the ropes in time with the beat of the song: when the last word was sung, the men would heave with all their might and move the boat a little further along the runners. Listen to James Bishop Dawe remember the singing of the "Jolly Poker":

 

"Tis now my Jolly Poker, let us rock and roll together. And 'tis now my Jolly Poker, haul." They'd haul then, you know. They'd "haul on the bowline, and haul and burst the towline, haul on the bowline, haul, boys, haul." All hands haul. And they would be haulin' too.'

It's a wonder the boat survived being launched off a cliff, but apparently the water was deep and the boat was sturdy, so it was not damaged. Patrick Walsh likely took the Little Mary with him the next time he went to the Labrador fishery. He died, a local legend, on July 9, 1923.³

Another Deep Gulch family, the Taylors, built a ship on their property which was presumably more favourable for launching a boat. Augustus Taylor, with his brothers James John, Jake, and Don, built the Louie T, a boat of around 23 tonnes. Named after the brothers' younger sister, Louisa, the Louie T was launched in 1915. She made the trip to the Labrador for several years. Enid Abbott, daughter of Augustus Taylor, remembers sailing with her father on these trips. The Louie T's last trip was in 1937. She was dismantled in Labrador sometime later.

¹ Bill Akerman, interview with Kelly Butler, August 14, 1997, Cupids Historical Society, Cupids Legacy Centre.
² James Bishop Dawe, interview with Victor DuPree, August 27, 1967, Memorial University of Newfoundland Folklore and Language Archive.
³ Andrew Walsh, interview with Katie Crane, July 11, 2021.
⁴ Mary Enid Abbot, interview with Tanya Edmunds, July 12, 1999, Cupids Historical Society, Cupids Legacy Centre.

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Saturday, July 24, 2021

Here Today, Gone Tomorrow


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There once was a house in Deep Gulch that simply would not stay put. It had a little help moving about from its owner James Walsh.

James first moved his home after receiving complaints from the Roman Catholic priest and parishioners that he had been sending his children to the Anglican school (which he had done because it was closer to his home in Deep Gulch).¹ He moved his house onto the property of the Roman Catholic school in Burnt Head and likely hoped that would be the end of the complaints. But a little while later, his wife had a spat with a neighbour — and it was serious enough to cause James to move the Walsh house back to Deep Gulch. 

There it remained — until he moved it to Cupids, where it stayed briefly. Then it came back to Deep Gulch ... then, finally, it was shifted into Cupids again, where it remains today.

(L – R) Louise Roberts (nee Dixon), James Walsh, Irene Walsh (nee Dixon), around 1941.
Photo courtesy of Ross Boone via the Cupids Historical Society, Cupids Legacy Centre
.

As strange as all this may seem today, it is not uncommon in Newfoundland and Labrador to hear stories of people taking their house with them when leaving their communities. The most well-known examples of this practice are related to the government's Resettlement Program of the 1950s. The communities along the Burnt Head and Spectacle Head trails were abandoned without government intervention throughout the 1930s and 1940s, however, as people living there chose to search for their fortunes elsewhere.

It can be difficult to leave behind your house and all the good memories of the community you were born and raised in. Some who knew their destination (and perhaps had economic reasons for doing so), felt it was better to move the entire house instead of rebuilding from scratch — especially if they were not moving far.

Many of the people who lived in the now abandoned communities along the Burnt Head and Spectacle Head trails moved into nearby Cupids. Some of their houses can still be seen today. For example, a house once owned by the Taylor family was moved out of Deep Gulch and is now located in modern Burnt Head, near the Anglican cemetery. Another was moved next to the Windsors family property, at the bottom of the hill near Shark Cove Road. A house once owned by Patrick Walsh Jr. and Mary (Power) Walsh was relocated to Cupids, but it is no longer standing.

Patrick Walsh Jr. (centre) and two relatives in front of a house moved from Deep Gulch.
Photo courtesy of Madonna Chaulk
.

Moving a house was no easy task, but it could be done in several ways. Those who wanted to reconstruct a house exactly as it looked in its original location would use a method called corners. They cut the structure at each corner, turning the walls into four sheets. Then they cut the sheets in half, into the upstairs and downstairs portions.² Six to eight men loaded these sheets onto horse-drawn carts and carried them to their new location. The pieces were then reassembled on new foundations. Because of the effort involved with this method, most people reassembled their homes in nearby communities—but at least one house, belonging to a Mr. Charles Dawe, made it all the way into St. John's and was reassembled on Blackmarsh Road.³

Sometimes houses were moved over water. The pieces of Mr. William Hussey's house were carefully lowered over the cliff in Deep Gulch and onto a ship, then sailed across the bay to Port de Grave.⁴

It was often simply easier to dismantle a house and use the materials to construct a new one elsewhere. Pieces of the houses, sheds, and root cellars that once made up the communities along the Burnt Head and Spectacle Head trails were repurposed into new houses in several locations.

¹ Andrew Walsh, interview with Katie Crane, June 6, 2021.
² Cecil Morgan, interview with Kelly Butler, August 20, 1997, Cupids Historical Society Collection, Cupids Legacy Centre.
³
William Norman, interview with Kelly Butler, July 31, 1997, Cupids Historical Society Collection, Cupids Legacy Centre.
Renelle Bishop, "The Abandoned Communities: Greenland, Noder Cove and Deep Gulch," August 6, 2000, Cupids Historical Society, Cupids Legacy Centre.

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Friday, July 23, 2021

Spectacle Head – A Great Spot for a Long View


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The name of the massive headland looming over Cupids harbour — Spectacle Head — dates back to the early 1600's. The earliest reference comes from the journal of Henry Crout, a colonist living in "Cupers Cove," as the colony was known. On January 25, 1613, Crout wrote: "All the harbour from Salmon Cove unto the Spectacles was frozen."¹ 

The name seems to derive from the towering height of the headland. The summit offers spectacular views of Cupids harbour, Bay de Grave, Conception Bay — and the hill is a spectacle itself.

View of Cupids harbour from the foot of Spectacle Head, date unknown.
Photo from the Sir Robert Bond Collection (12.08.016),
Courtesy of Memorial University Archives and Special Collections.

In the local dialect, Spectacle Head is sometimes referred to as Sparticle Head. The only other place this pronunciation appears is in the dialect of Kent, England. "Sparticles" are spectacles, in the sense of eye glasses.² This suggests that at some point, people from Kent likely settled in the area and brought their dialect with them, and this language holdover remains today.


A view of Spectacle Head from the other side of Cupids harbour.
Photo courtesy of Chris Woodworth-Lynas.

In geological terms, Spectacle Head is a "roche moutonĂ©e," a glacially eroded bedrock hill.³ As the glaciers moved over the land, they smoothed the cliffs at the hill's summit. The steep slope where Spectacle Head meets the ocean was created by the rock being broken up and dragged out to sea by the moving ice. As with Burnt Head, it is possible to see sedimentary layering of the Drook Formation in Spectacle Head from across the Harbour.

In this geological drawing of Spectacle Head, the light blue arrows indicate the movement of Pleistocene glaciers out to sea. The dotted orange lines on the hill indicate sedimentary layering of the Drook Formation.
Drawing by Chris Woodworth-Lynas.

¹ Seary, E.R., Place Names of the Avalon Peninsula of the Island of Newfoundland. Toronto: University of Toronto Press, 1971.
² A Dictionary of the Kentish Dialect. Kent Archaeological Society, 2008.
³ Geological information and photos provided by Chris Woodworth-Lynas.

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Thursday, July 22, 2021

From Here to the Gallows


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Guest editor: Nellie P. Strowbridge

On the night of August 31, 1833, John Snow, a prosperous English Protestant plantation owner, disappeared from his home in Salmon Cove, Bay de Grave. His wife, Catherine Mandeville, along with John's 23-year-old indentured servant, Arthur Spring, and his weekend bookkeeper, 28-year-old Tobias Mandeville, a cooper for John Jacob and his partner Thomas Martin, were charged with John's murder. The men were accused of shooting him as he climbed from his boat to his stage after he arrived home from a visit with John Jacob and Thomas Martin at their warehouse in Bareneed.

Catherine and John Snow were the parents of several children when they married on October 30, 1828. In time, the Snows had ten children—two of whom died in infancy. Knowing that her children would have no protection if she was imprisoned, Catherine fled Salmon Cove in an effort to reach Brigus and have papers drawn up by Esquire Richard Mandeville. The path she took brought her through Rip Raps and around Spectacle Head, right where you are walking now.

Catherine crossed through a patch of swampland under soft heather. Her shoes sloshed with water as she moved to dry land and down over the steep rocky footpath to Caplin Cove where lamplight flickered in several windows. She was let into the house of Mary Britt. Catherine told her that she wanted to get to Brigus where Esquire Richard Mandeville would be able to draw up papers to protect the Snow homestead for her children.

The moon was beaming off the ocean as Catherine hurried away from Mary's place and up the rock-knobbed path, keeping a steady step as she trudged over the hill and down the valley to Rip Raps meadow, past houses and tilts, silent and shadowed. She crossed to the side of Spectacle Mountain, a massive peak of rugged rock overlooking Cupids. Near it, The American Man: a pile of rocks. Cold marsh water sucked her shoes before she came to a dry path strewn with tilted, sharp rocks. Leaves flittered to the ground and bushes rustled under autumn winds as she kept going down the path to Cupids. She came to Cat Breen's house all abiver, fearing she was being shadowed. She tripped in brambles as she rushed like someone with the devil in chase. Cat was uneasy, telling her, "Make haste to lie under my bed."

As soon as darkness fell, Catherine left Cat's house by the back door and skirted the backs of houses and tilts, moving cautiously until she got to Denis and Mary Hartery's house. She hoped to make it to Brigus the next day. Catherine slept in the bed of Mary, the Harterys' young daughter. The next morning, realizing that she could not make it to Brigus, Catherine gave herself up to Patrick Walsh and Charles Cozens who had been searching for her.

Catherine Snow, Tobias Mandeville, and Arthur Spring were imprisoned in a St. John's gaol. The Supreme Court had to establish that John Snow's death had occurred. There were no sworn witnesses to his presumed death and no verbal confessions in the court of any prisoner. There was no demonstrative evidence shown at the trial—no weapon, no trousers, blood on them supposedly concealed in ink, and no evidence of a rumoured affair between Catherine and Tobias. John's body was never found. He and his money box had disappeared without a trace.

At the trial in January 1834, Chief Justice Henry John Boulton cautioned the jury: 

... some satisfactory proof should be required that the persons supposed to have been murdered are actually dead; for although we may entertain the strongest personal impressions that these unfortunate people have been made away with, yet we can only arrive at a safe conclusion by adhering strictly to clear rules of evidence, and fixed principles of law, and we must not allow our indignation to get the better of our reason, and indict even the most strongly suspected upon mere conjecture.¹

Despite the judge's caution, Catherine Snow, Tobias Mandeville, and Arthur Spring were tried together and convicted of John's murder on January 10, 1834, Catherine, as an accessory before the fact. Tobias and Arthur were hanged from the window of the old St. John's courthouse the following Monday, January 13. To save the young Irishmen from having their bodies anatomized and examined by a Dr. Edward Kielly, residents from Port de Grave seized the men's remains, and, after an impressive funeral, had them buried in Port de Grave. Dr. Edward Kielly confided in Governor Thomas Cochrane: "Anxious as I was to avail of so good an opportunity of practicing anatomy, I dared not do it; my life was in danger from the mob." 

He managed only a penknife to their necks before the bodies were taken.

Catherine had "pleaded the belly." She was pregnant, and managed to delay her hanging until months after the birth of her son Richard. Petitions from Father Edward Troy, Father Thomas Waldron, and Father Patrick Ward to Governor Cochrane seeking clemency for Catherine were dismissed by Judge Boulton with these words: "I would mind the barking of a little cur in the streets more than I would care for the rabble and their petitions."

Forty-year-old Catherine Snow was hanged on July 21, 1834—the last woman to be hanged in Newfoundland. Her body was anatomized by Dr. Kielly.

Magistrate Robert John Pinsent, who had been instrumental in entering unsworn statements to the court, petitioned the court for guardianship of the Snow children, claiming the oldest of her daughters was 14. Bridget was 17 at the time, and Eliza was 14. Possibly he intended to exclude Bridget as she would have been old enough to manage the estate and this was not in his plan, though we can never know for certain. He also asked for guardianship of John Snow's three-acre plantation and his fishing property. He claimed that John's brothers were illiterate and dismissed them as unreliable, unable to handle his business, even though John himself was illiterate and managed a successful fishing and farming business. His brother, Thomas, was already a boat keeper.

Edward Mortier Archibald, Acting Judge and Chief Clerk of the Supreme Court, also one of the judges who signed the warrant for Catherine's execution, in a letter to the court, recommended Pinsent as a fit and proper person to take care of John Snow's estate and be the guardian of his children. This was done in April 1834, months before Catherine Snow was hanged. Eventually, the property was sold and Catherine's children scattered. This was a period where the collaboration of religion, racial bigotry, politics, and power became a deadly combination, and they worked against Catherine Snow and her children.

At the time, relatives shied away from their connection to the case of Catherine Snow. Today, believing they are descendants of Newfoundland's most infamous woman, there are some who are trying to prove a connection to the offspring of Catherine's children: Bridget, Eliza, Johnny, Catherine, Martin, Maria, Johanna, and Richard.

Catherine Snow, a novel written by Nellie Strowbridge, was published in 2009. In it, Catherine was given the benefit of the doubt. The book recognizes that it is wrong to assume that conviction for a crime absolutely means that the "guilty" person actually committed it.

On March 29, 2012, the Newfoundland Historical Society held a mock trial at Hampton Hall in the Marine Institute in St. John's. Presiding over the trial were The Hon. Judge Carl R. Thompson, The Hon. Seamus O'Regan for the Crown, and defence lawyer Ms. Rosellen Sullivan. An audience of more than 400 people acted as the jury. Catherine Snow was declared not guilty, validating her own statement: "I am innocent of any participation in the crime of which I am accused as an unborn baby."

¹ The Newfoundland Patriot, January 7, 1834.


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Wednesday, July 21, 2021

Spectacle Head - Standing Tall and Visible


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Perched high atop Spectacle Head, the American Man has watched over the waters of Bay de Grave and Conception Bay for at least a century. The circular rock cairn is a well-known landmark in Cupids. However, it is not the only rock cairn of its kind in Newfoundland and Labrador. Others can be spotted in Placentia Bay, Burnt Islands, on the Great Northern Peninsula, and on the coast of Labrador.¹

Muriel Hunter, wife of A.C. Hunter, on the 'American Man', ca. 1930.
Photo by A.C. Hunter, Courtesy of Memorial University Archives and Special Collections.

The 'American Man' rock cairn today.
This view is towards the northwest out of Cupids harbour. Burnt Head is the headland left of the cairn.

But where did the idea for these rock cairns come from, and who built them?

Oral tradition sometimes attributes them to surveyors mapping the coastlines of Newfoundland and Labrador. One legend about the Spectacle Head American Man suggests that it was constructed as a memorial to an American man who who fell to his death from the hill, though there is little evidence to support this. A more compelling explanation is that cairns and other landmarks were used in groups of two or three by fishermen, to aid their navigation. Aligning them in a particular way allowed navigators to pinpoint dangerous underwater rocks or treacherous waters (or find fishing grounds). The American Man is used by local fishermen to locate The Chimney fishing ground in Bay de Grave to this day. But the former purpose would have been particular helpful, in some weather conditions, before the lighthouse was built at Goat's Cove (1916).²

Folklore survey card regarding the American Man on Spectacle Head, written by Lloyd Webber on July 7, 1971.
Photo courtesy of Memorial University Folklore and Language Archive. 

Theories abound about the unique name of the cairn, as well. It may have been named for the poor gentleman who met an untimely end on Spectacle Head. Or it was chosen to reflect the tradition of American fishermen in Labrador, who erected similar cairns to mark the most desirable fishing grounds. An even more likely explanation is that the name is a corruption of "marking man" — and like Noder Cove on Burnt Head, the local dialect influenced a transition in name and pronunciation. We may never have a definitive answer.

¹ Dale Jarvis, "Stone Sentinels of Newfoundland," Downhome Magazine, May 28, 2019. https://www.downhomelife.com/article.php?id=2019.
² Dale Jarvis, "Folklore Photo: The Cupids American Man circa 1930," ICH Blog, February 4, 2014. http://www.ichblog.ca/2014/02/folklore-photo-cupids-american-man.html.

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