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Saturday, July 31, 2021

Burnt Head Point – Folding Under Pressure


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Looking across the water at Burnt Head Point, it is not hard to pick out the rock of the 575-million-year-old Drook Formation. In fact, all of the grey-green layered rock found along the Burnt Head Trail belong to the same silty and sandy sediments of that formation.

The name comes from the location where this formation was first identified — along the Drook River just west of Mistaken Point, on the southeast corner of Newfoundland's Avalon Peninsula. These sediments were deposited after a long period of glaciation. They accumulated over tens of thousands of years in what was, at the time, a deep ocean — and during an era when multicellular animals and plants were just starting to appear and evolve.

Burnt Head Point showing the Drook Formation sediments.
Photo by Chris Woodworth-Lynas

The layers — or strata — of this deep-water sediment were likely horizontal when they were first deposited. Over time, they tilted and they now dip downward toward the northwest. 

In the cliff's midsection, the layers have been distorted into a Z-shaped fold. This is the result of powerful tectonic forces pushing the Drook Formation sediments over the older, pink-coloured rocks that form Burnt Head.

The pink rocks are volcanic ashes and tuffs belonging to the older Harbour Main Group, which are between 600 and 630 million years old. They are intermixed with breccia — a combination of gravel, boulders, and sand. The layering in these volcanic rocks is very disorganized, probably because of volcanic action and earlier tectonic movements. As a result, it is difficult to make out the structure of these rocks today.



Burnt Head Point's geological layers: The red areas are volcanic rocks of the Harbour Main Group and the orange lines trace the layers of the Drook Formation. The large red arrows indicate the direction of force pushing upward and folding the layers of sediment. The blue arrows indicate the movement of glacier ice over the rocks and into Conception Bay about 10,000 to 12,000 years ago, at the end of the Pleistocene glaciation.
Drawing courtesy of Chris Woodworth-Lynas.

The rocks along the Burnt Head Trail are slightly older than those at Mistaken Point (now a UNESCO World Heritage site). There, the imprints or trace fossils of some of the world's oldest multicellular organisms — the Ediacaran Fauna — can be seen. They have also been found in younger layers of the Drook Formation closer to Cupids, in Spaniard's Bay, and in Upper Island Cove. So far, however, none of these unique fossils have been found in the rocks along the Burnt Head Trail. If you think you may have found any fossils, please let us know by sending a message using Contact Us on this page.

Information provided by Chris Woodworth-Lynas.

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Friday, July 30, 2021

Names & Stages


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The Morgan family gives their name to Morgan’s Cove.¹ With the exception of a few family members, such as Samuel Morgan who was a carpenter, the Morgans were fishers. Three Morgan brothers had fishing stages close to each other in nearby Noder Cove. The people of the community nicknamed the buildings the Father, the Son, and the Holy Ghost.

Greenland, Morgan's Cove, Noder Cove, and Deep Gulch were all settled because of their proximity to fishing grounds in nearby Conception Bay. Before outboard motors existed, fishers would row out to their fishing grounds every day, and back, which was hard work. Living close to fishing grounds meant they spent less time rowing, saving them time and energy. Many men who lived in the communities along the Burnt Head Trail also fished "on the Labrador."

The government wharf in Cupids. Photo by Mary Schwall.
Memorial University Archives and Special Collections (Coll-206), 1.01.040. 

While every fisherman knew enough carpentry to build themselves a house, a carpenter was needed for the finer work. Samuel Morgan's skill set him apart from the rest. He lived in one of the largest houses in the community, which he inherited from his father, and he worked hard to improve it.² People remember the house as having an enclosed front porch with windows, a large front door, and a flat roof with felt shingles. Samuel Morgan's carpentry shop was across from his house. From there, he made window sashes and doors for the people in the neighbouring communities.

¹ Renelle Bishop, "The Abandoned Communities: Greenland, Noder Cove and Deep Gulch," August 6, 2000, Cupids Historical Society, Cupids Legacy Centre.
² John Morgan, "Recollections of Burnt Head," n.d., Collection of Yvonne Akerman Reid.

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Thursday, July 29, 2021

What's a Noder?


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Noder Cove gets its name from its position to the north of the nearby community of Greenland. It was originally called “Northern Cove” but, with time and the local dialect, Northern became Noder, and the name stuck.¹ 


This area actually encompassed two communities, Morgan's Cove and Noder Cove proper, and was more spread out compared to Greenland and Deep Gulch. While the Morgan families could be found in both halves of Noder Cove, there were more of them living in Morgan's Cove. Noder Cove families included the Fowlers, Tuckers, Dawes, and a few Morgans.²


The majority of the families here were Anglican. The handful of Roman Catholics, like the Walsh family in Deep Gulch, sent their children to the Anglican school for convenience.


Noder Cove, looking across Bay de Grave towards Port de Grave.

Two people are buried somewhere close to the end of Morgan's Road, which runs between Noder Cove and Morgan's Cove. They are believed to be a mother and child belonging to one of the earliest families to settle in the area, the Byrnes. Because they were Catholic, they could not be buried in the Anglican cemetery, and so were interred on their family land. Their graves were marked with field stones or large flat slate rocks (perhaps taken from the quarry in Deep Gulch). Today the area has become so grown over that it is quite difficult to find them.³

The families of Noder Cove prospered until the late 1930s or early 1940s when, with a collapse in the local cod stocks and the opening of the Argentia naval base, it became necessary for men to travel further afield to find work. It was simply easier to move to a better location and avail of modern conveniences, including the electricity that other towns were connected to. It is thought that the first house in Noder Cove to be abandoned belonged to Betty Morgan. She moved to live with her relative Ebenezer Dawe after her husband died.

¹ Tammy Mason, "Life in the Abandoned Settlements of Cupids," August 31, 1998, Cupids Historical Society, Cupids Legacy Centre.
² Renelle Bishop, "The Abandoned Communities: Greenland, Noder Cove and Deep Gulch," August 6, 2000, Cupids Historical Society, Cupids Legacy Centre.
³ Bob Bishop, interview with Katie Crane, June 4, 2021.

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Wednesday, July 28, 2021

Following the Fish


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Codfish were once plentiful in Conception Bay, but there came a time when these waters were unable to sustain all the fishermen living in the many communities dotting its shores. The men of the communities along the Burnt Head and Spectacle Head trails began to sign on as sharemen, joining a fishing crew to share in the proceeds, with fishermen who were sailing to Labrador to prosecute the Labrador inshore fishery. From the 1920s to the 1950s, most able-bodied local men would go to the Labrador to fish, which contributed to the eventual abandonment of the communities here, because families no longer needed to be near Conception Bay if they were fishing elsewhere.

The men from the Cupids area fished in the waters near Spotted Islands, Domino, Batteau, and Black Tickle, Labrador.¹ They signed on as sharemen with a fishing boat "Skipper" — and lived and worked in the Labrador fishery until they returned. They were usually away from May to November.² The shareman was responsible for taking care of the living premises, the boat, and everything that was needed for the crew working in Labrador.

Sometimes men took their families with them, but space was scarce on the ships going up to Labrador, so often just a wife or a daughter would go—to help with the cooking and cleaning. Enid Abbott remembers going with her father to the Labrador to cook when she was only 12 years old.³ Sometimes daughters would make the trip with fathers so wives could stay home to tend to the land and look after younger children.

Annie (Walsh) Boone in Labrador, holding turrs (Common or Thick-billed Murres), the results of a food hunt on the water. Photo courtesy of Ross Boone.

The trip to the Labrador might be made on a privately owned boat (such as Enid Abbott's father's Louie T), or company boats that were owned by merchants such as H.B. Dawe of Cupids (such as the Placentia or the Exploits), or one of the railway steamers (such as the Kyle, which can still be seen aground in at the head of Harbour Grace). When preparing for the trip, people packed wooden "Labrador boxes." They filled them with the clothing and gear they'd need, and their families often tucked a fruitcake or a bottle of rum inside as a treat for the summer.

On larger ships, fishermen would usually be accommodated in Steerage Class. This meant crowded rooms, and cooking your own food in the galley — once the Saloon Class meals were cleared away.

On arrival in Labrador, summer homes needed to be opened and cleaned out after the winter. Skippers lived with their families in small cabins not much bigger than sheds, while crew members slept in communal bunkhouses. Furniture was rough and homemade. Food supplies, provided by the Skipper, might include half a dozen barrels of flour, a barrel of molasses, large tubs of butter, a hundred-pound sack of sugar, hard bread, peas, beans, raisins, rice, and potatoes. The supply was meant to feed the Skipper, his family, and the crewmen. Sometimes goats and hens were also brought, to provide milk and eggs. In some locations, cabbages and turnips were planted to provide greens in the fall.

Men and women worked hard while in Labrador. Men would rise at four or five in the morning and go out to check the cod traps. They ate breakfast only after this was done, then moved to the fishing stages to clean the fish. After a midday meal, they'd go out to the traps again — and they would not stop working until after dark. The goal was to haul three loads a day, if they could. It was not uncommon to see men cleaning fish by the light of kerosene lamps.

Women also rose early—to make bread. They cleaned the cabins and washed clothes, making repairs as needed. Enid Abbott remembers making oilskins for her father, dipping his clothes in oil so they would repel water. Women also helped split fish, before the cod was salted.

Time for a picnic in 1920's Black Tickle, Labrador. Photo by Susie Bonnell of Cupids.

When cooking, women used a regular schedule to ensure they got the most out of the finite amount of provisions. Monday was boiled beans, Wednesday was pea soup, Friday was fish, if they had it, and Saturday was fish and brewis. On Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Sundays, they served Jiggs dinner: peas pudding, salt beef, duff, and potatoes.

Though the days were long and the work was hard, people still made time for entertainment. People would sing songs, tell stories, and visit the Labrador livyers (locals) for a dance. Samuel Horwood Richards from Rip Raps and James Bishop Dawe from Burnt Head were good friends who worked together on the Labrador. With Samuel's brother George, they wrote the song "Spotted Islands" when sailing on the Anderson owned by H.B. Dawe. It tells of times spent together and the fun they had in Labrador. Click the link to listen to the first verse.



We slipped our lines in Cupids,
Hoist our sails and squared away.

We were bound for Spotted Islands
So we heard Skipper Pottle say.

The boys jumped in their tacklin'
And their shoes they start to shine

For a dance in Spotted Islands
In the good old summer time.

In the good old summer time, 

In the good old summer time.

For a dance in Spotted Islands
In the good old summer time.
 

– Samuel Horwood Richards, James Bishop Dawe, and George Richards


¹ Tanya Edmunds, Down to the Labrador: The Labrador Fishery and its Connection to Cupids, 1920 to 1950, 

August 31, 1999, Cupids Historical Society, Cupids Legacy Centre.

² Interview with Samuel Horwood Richards by Victor DuPree, August 27, 1967, Memorial University Folklore 

and Language Archive.

³ Interview with Mary Enid Abbott by Tanya Edmunds, July 12, 1999, Cupids Historical Society, Cupids Legacy 

Centre. 

⁴ Interview with James Bishop Dawe by Victor DuPree, August 27, 1961, Memorial University Folklore and 

Language Archive.


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Tuesday, July 27, 2021

Natural Arch – Nature's Sculpting Hand


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The natural rock arch on the Burnt Head Trail was formed after the Pleistocene glaciers melted, between 10,000 and 8,000 years ago. The sea level gradually rose by about 120 metres as huge ice sheets and glaciers across the northern hemisphere melted.


The arch on the Burnt Head Trail is made of rock of the Drook Formation.
Photo courtesy of Chris Woodworth-Lynas.

On the shores of Conception Bay, rising water levels and waves from strong northeasterly storms battered the coastal rocks. Over time, the constant assault began to erode the shoreline, where some rock had already been loosened by the glaciers' retreat. Eventually all this action washed away pieces of bedrock at sea level. In some places, unstable overhangs were left as rock was removed. These, too, eventually collapsed and were washed away by the sea. This is what occurred to form the arch you see today. 


When you look closely at the arch, you can make out both the rock layers, which have been folded downwards, and straight partings, or cleavege, tilted to the right. Cleavage is the result of great pressure causing re-alignment of clay minerals. Rocks with good cleavage can be split easily, yielding rock pieces that are ideal for building house foundations or root cellar walls.


Features of the Drook Formation: The orange lines show the folded sedimentary layers
(which were originally flat). The black dashes represent clay minerals in the sediment,
which have been realigned through compression (red arrows) to form cleavage.
Drawing courtesy of Chris Woodworth-Lynas.

The sheltered cove in the area below and inside the arch is deceptively large. A17-foot open boat can fit inside — with turning space — at low tide. The craggy ledges of the arch are perfect places for nesting birds. Ravens have made their nests on rock walls of the arch, keeping their young safe from predators. The croaks of raven parents and nestlings can be heard during the nesting season in spring to early summer.


Information provided by Chris Woodworth-Lynas.


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Monday, July 26, 2021

Deep Gulch - Accordions in the Quarry


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There was once a quarry in Deep Gulch that, according to local oral history, was operated by an English company. It was located near the shoreline and the property of James Walsh. A steep path led down to it.¹ Slate was apparently excavated and shipped back to England. Little is known about this quarry, including the name of the company that operated it.

According to former resident Cecil Morgan, the people living nearby used to get rocks from the quarry to build foundations for their houses and root cellars, as well as rock walls to protect their gardens.² He also reported that his grandfather used flat rocks collected at the quarry to create a flagstone walkway on his property in Noder Cove. It led from the stable to the house and connected with some other houses in the community.

Martha LeDrew of Deep Gulch, born in 1908, lived in that community until she was 22, when she married and moved into Cupids.³ She has said that she would sometimes take her accordion to the quarry to play because it was a lovely place to sit for awhile.

And we used to spend Sunday evenings, I would take the accordion and go up, myself and Hussey was living there then with an old lady, and we we would take the accordion and we would go down on the water side. There was steps you could go down and come in. It was a lovely place. And I would play the accordion until I would get tired.

– Martha LeDrew

Her family in Port de Grave said that, on a good day—if the wind was right—they could hear her playing all the way across the bay.

I used to take the accordion myself and go round in there and play. And my cousins lived in Port de Grave, right across from us over on the Port de Grave shore, and they told me that they used to listen to me playing the accordion, and that would be a nice calm day. Maybe in the evening after dinner, or any time like that. And they told me different times they heard me playing the accordion over there, and I could hardly believe that, but they said they could.   

– Martha LeDrew


¹ Interview with James Fowler by Kelly Butler, August 6, 1997, Cupids Historical Society Collection, Cupids Legacy Centre.
² Interview with Cecil Morgan by Kelly Butler, August 20, 1997, Cupids Historical Society Collection, Cupids Legacy Centre.
³ Interview with Martha LeDrew by Kelly Butler, August 8, 1997, Cupids Historical Society Collection, Cupids Legacy Centre.

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Sunday, July 25, 2021

Deep Gulch – A Leap of Faith


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Deep Gulch was home to several families, including the Husseys, Taylors, and Walshes. With steep cliffs, it does not look like a good place to build a boat, at first glance. But that is exactly what Patrick Walsh did.

Born around 1853, Patrick Walsh was a ship captain and boat builder. His family land did not slope nicely down to the water, but that did not deter him. Patrick built the Little Mary, an approximately 25-tonne schooner.¹ Without gently sloping land or a nearby beach, Patrick reportedly launched the Little Mary off the side of the cliff.

Moving a boat the size of the Little Mary would have been no easy task, and launching her off the side of a cliff an even harder one. Runners would have been put under the boat to help move it, while men hauled it along on ropes. To help motivate the men, the song "Jolly Poker" (also called "Johnny Poker") may have sung.² Men would haul on the ropes in time with the beat of the song: when the last word was sung, the men would heave with all their might and move the boat a little further along the runners. Listen to James Bishop Dawe remember the singing of the "Jolly Poker":

 

"Tis now my Jolly Poker, let us rock and roll together. And 'tis now my Jolly Poker, haul." They'd haul then, you know. They'd "haul on the bowline, and haul and burst the towline, haul on the bowline, haul, boys, haul." All hands haul. And they would be haulin' too.'

It's a wonder the boat survived being launched off a cliff, but apparently the water was deep and the boat was sturdy, so it was not damaged. Patrick Walsh likely took the Little Mary with him the next time he went to the Labrador fishery. He died, a local legend, on July 9, 1923.³

Another Deep Gulch family, the Taylors, built a ship on their property which was presumably more favourable for launching a boat. Augustus Taylor, with his brothers James John, Jake, and Don, built the Louie T, a boat of around 23 tonnes. Named after the brothers' younger sister, Louisa, the Louie T was launched in 1915. She made the trip to the Labrador for several years. Enid Abbott, daughter of Augustus Taylor, remembers sailing with her father on these trips. The Louie T's last trip was in 1937. She was dismantled in Labrador sometime later.

¹ Bill Akerman, interview with Kelly Butler, August 14, 1997, Cupids Historical Society, Cupids Legacy Centre.
² James Bishop Dawe, interview with Victor DuPree, August 27, 1967, Memorial University of Newfoundland Folklore and Language Archive.
³ Andrew Walsh, interview with Katie Crane, July 11, 2021.
⁴ Mary Enid Abbot, interview with Tanya Edmunds, July 12, 1999, Cupids Historical Society, Cupids Legacy Centre.

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